Ethylene Brassylate, widely known by the trade name Musk T, is one of the most important and commonly used synthetic musk ingredients. It functions as a supportive backbone for floral notes such as rose and jasmine, while also adding depth and warmth to ambery accords.
The history of Ethylene Brassylate began in 1933–1934, when chemists at DuPont (USA) successfully synthesized the compound. Its introduction marked an important turning point in the search for safer and more sustainable alternatives to nitro musks. The legendary perfumer André Fraysse was among the first to recognize its great potential. Around 1934, he incorporated Ethylene Brassylate into an updated formula of Lanvin’s iconic Arpège (1927), enriching the base and giving the drydown greater fullness and depth.
By nature, Ethylene Brassylate is a man-made compound that does not occur naturally. It belongs to the macrocyclic musk family (large-ring musks) and was created in the laboratory to emulate the scent of natural deer musk, while offering better stability and a more sustainable solution that does not rely on animal sourcing. Its production involves a chemical reaction between brassylic acid and ethylene glycol. In appearance, Ethylene Brassylate is a fairly viscous liquid, clear and colorless to pale yellow. In addition to its common name, it is also known as Astrotone, Musk NN, and Emeressence 1150 Musk.
Ethylene Brassylate has become an essential component in countless products. It is widely used in fine fragrance; personal care products such as lotions, shower gels, and shampoos; and home care applications such as detergents, fabric softeners, and scented candles.
Description
Ethylene Brassylate is classified in the Musk family-more specifically, a macrocyclic musk-and is often associated with the “white musk” profile. In a perfume formula, it plays a dual role: it acts both as a base note and as an effective fixative. Thanks to its high molecular weight and very low volatility, Ethylene Brassylate slows the evaporation of other fragrance materials, thereby significantly extending the longevity of the scent on skin.
Its odor is described as extremely soft, clean, sweet, and warmly powdery-smooth. It carries subtle floral nuances, a slight suggestion of ambrette seed, and a gentle vanilla-like sweetness in the drydown. Its intensity is moderate-not sharp or overpowering-but it diffuses pleasantly, creating a light, radiant aura. Notably, its lasting power is excellent, reportedly exceeding 200 hours on a blotter strip.
In fragrance compositions, Ethylene Brassylate is a foundational material for building crisp, clean white-musk accords. It supports and rounds floral notes such as rose and jasmine, and adds depth and warmth to ambery structures. Its main function is to provide a long-lasting, velvety musk layer in the base without significantly altering the overall character of the fragrance. One of the most famous and historically significant uses of Ethylene Brassylate is in Lanvin Arpège, where it was added to enrich the musky-woody base and perfectly complement the signature aldehydic floral theme.
From a technical standpoint, because Ethylene Brassylate is liquid at room temperature, it can be incorporated directly into formulas without pre-dissolving in a solvent. However, it is reported to have poor solubility in propylene glycol.
Applications
Due to its high stability and exceptional versatility, Ethylene Brassylate is used in nearly all scented product types. Its applications range from alcohol-based perfumes and leave-on cosmetics (such as body lotions) to rinse-off products (such as soaps, shower gels, shampoos, and conditioners). It is also widely used in home care, including laundry powders, liquid detergents, fabric softeners, scented candles, and air fresheners.
From a regulatory perspective, under International Fragrance Association (IFRA) standards, Ethylene Brassylate is considered safe and is not restricted in concentration for any product category. In theory, this means it could be used at 100%. In practice, typical usage levels in fragrance concentrates usually range from 0.5% to 3%, and may be increased to 10% or 12% in certain special applications.
In terms of safety, Ethylene Brassylate is generally regarded as benign and non-phototoxic. The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) has evaluated it and concluded that it is not a skin sensitizer at current use levels. Nevertheless, the European Union still identifies it as a substance with potential skin-sensitizing risk.
No special storage conditions are required; however, lower-quality grades may develop an unpleasant rancid, harsh odor reminiscent of castor oil over time.
Beyond its classic presence in Lanvin Arpège, Ethylene Brassylate continues to appear in the ingredient lists of many modern products. It is found in makeup products from major brands such as Givenchy, Revlon, and CoverGirl, as well as in numerous fragrances from other brands across the market.
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