Isopropyl Myristate IPM Solvent
CAS# 77-93-0

Isopropyl Myristate, commonly abbreviated as IPM and also known by chemical names such as 1-methylethyl tetradecanoate or the isopropyl ester of myristic acid, is a widely used synthetic ingredient. Although the starting myristic acid is often isolated from plant sources such as coconut oil, palm oil, or nutmeg, reacting it with industrial isopropyl alcohol via esterification makes IPM a fully synthetic chemical product. It doesn’t have a dramatic “perfumer’s discovery” backstory; rather, it is a 20th-century achievement of the cosmetics and personal-care industry, originally developed to create a fast-absorbing, non-greasy emollient to replace heavier traditional mineral and vegetable oils. In appearance, IPM is a clear, colorless, oily liquid with very low viscosity, often feeling even lighter than typical vegetable oils. As a solvent and functional ingredient, it is essentially odorless in real-world use, or at most carries a barely perceptible very faint fatty/oily nuance if smelled carefully in neat form. This neutrality is its biggest advantage, because it doesn’t distort the scent of essential oils or perfume materials when blended.

Description

Because IPM is not a fragrance material, concepts like odor intensity, diffusion, or longevity don’t apply. It does not evaporate quickly like alcohol, but it is also not a dedicated fixative or aroma modifier; its primary role is as a carrier, diluent, and solubilizing solvent. IPM dissolves well in alcohol, mineral oils, vegetable oils, and many other organic solvents, but it is completely insoluble in water. In perfume compounding, it offers an excellent way to dissolve solid powders and crystalline materials that are poorly soluble in alcohol-typical examples include Musk Ketone and various resins. It is also used to dilute very powerful materials to make weighing and dosage control easier. In particular, IPM is often chosen as a base solvent for oil-based perfumes and alcohol-free roll-on perfumes, because it absorbs quickly into skin without the sticky greasiness associated with oils like coconut or jojoba.

Applications

IPM’s largest use is in cosmetics, where it appears frequently in skin creams, lipsticks, bath oils, and cleansing oils to reduce greasiness and improve spreadability and absorption. Usage levels are quite flexible-typically 1% to 10% in cosmetics, and 1% to 20% (or higher) in perfumery when used as a base. IFRA does not restrict the concentration of this material, as it is generally considered safe and non-irritating at customary use levels. However, an extremely important caution is that IPM is often cited as having a maximum comedogenic (pore-clogging) rating of 5/5, so extra care is needed when using high levels in leave-on facial products, especially for oily or acne-prone skin. For storage, it is sufficient to keep it in a dry, cool, well-ventilated place, since it is very stable and far less prone to oxidation or rancidity than natural oils.

On the market, IPM is found in most alcohol-free roll-on perfumes, and in well-known cleansing oils (e.g., Shu Uemura, DHC, Bioderma) as a solvent to dissolve makeup; it is also sometimes added in small amounts to body mists (e.g., Bath & Body Works) to help fragrance feel smoother on skin and adhere a bit better. Finally, in entry 2733 of Perfume and Flavor Chemicals, Steffen Arctander described Isopropyl Myristate as a colorless, nearly odorless oily liquid, insoluble in water yet soluble in alcohol and oils. Technically, he noted its use in perfumery as a solvent for crystalline chemicals, oakmoss-derived materials, and as a diluent for very strong, highly diffusive odorants. He also emphasized that it is highly stable to light and air, has only an extremely faint fatty note, and is rarely noticeable at the diluted levels typically used.