Iso Eugenol Aroma Chemical
CAS# 97-54-1 / 5932-68-3

Isoeugenol is a nature-identical and synthetic material with a historic role in the fragrance industry. Although it occurs in small amounts in ylang ylang, nutmeg, and clove essential oils, it is produced industrially mainly through the isomerization of Eugenol. In the late 19th century, Isoeugenol was an extremely important intermediate in the first synthetic Vanillin production process, marking a major advance in industrial chemistry. Physically, it is a slightly viscous liquid ranging from clear to pale yellow, and it tends to darken upon exposure to air.

Description

Belonging to the spicy-floral family, Isoeugenol gives off a warm, sweet, and rich scent, characterized by a carnation note intertwined with subtle woody and vanilla nuances. Functioning from the middle note to the base note, and serving as a fixative, blender, and modifier, this material has strong odor impact, good diffusion, and a lasting tenacity of hundreds of hours on a blotter. In fragrance formulas, it helps build carnation notes, supports oriental accords, and links floral components with spices. Perfumers often pair it with Eugenol, Benzyl Salicylate, Ylang Ylang, and Linalool to create the classic carnation accord. Because of its very strong odor and slight viscosity, it is often diluted in DPG for easier control.

Applications

In terms of applications, this material is used in perfumes, scented candles, leave-on cosmetics, rinse-off products, soap, and food flavorings. However, Isoeugenol is very strictly controlled by IFRA due to its high skin sensitization potential, with recommended usage levels often limited to below 0.02% to 0.2% depending on the product category. Users should note in particular that it is a mandatory declarable allergen in Europe and can easily discolor soap to brown or dark yellow in alkaline conditions. Proper storage requires keeping the container tightly closed, in a cool, dry place, away from direct light. Many perfume masterpieces, such as Bellodgia by Caron and L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, bear the distinct signature of this ingredient. Finally, the value of this material was affirmed in Perfume and Flavor Chemicals, where expert Steffen Arctander described Isoeugenol as having a sweet, warm spicy-floral odor characteristic of carnation. He noted that it is softer and more floral than Eugenol, making it an essential material in carnation accords, while also carefully warning about its tendency to discolor when exposed to alkali or light.